In an extraordinary display of human endurance and
mountaineering prowess, May 18, 2026, will be remembered as one of the most
historic days in Himalayan climbing history.
The spring 2026 climbing season in Nepal has already shaped
up to be unprecedented, with record-breaking permit numbers and stunning
achievements across multiple peaks. But Monday, May 18, stood out even in this
exceptional season as veteran climber Pasang Dawa Sherpa—widely known as Pa
Dawa—summited Mount Everest for the 30th time, becoming only the second person
in history to reach this remarkable milestone.
This achievement did not occur in isolation. The same day
witnessed a cascade of historic ascents, record-setting climbs, and what some
reports suggest may have been over 270 climbers reaching the summit of Everest
in a single 24-hour period.
From seasoned Sherpa guides pushing the boundaries of human possibility to
women climbers shattering glass ceilings at 8,848 meters, May 18, 2026, was a
day that will echo through mountaineering history for decades to come.
The 30th Summit: Pa Dawa Joins an Elite Club
At 8:25 am on Monday morning, 49-year-old Pa Dawa from the
Sherpa heartland of Pangboche stood atop the world. His 30th successful ascent
of Mount Everest placed him alongside Kami Rita Sherpa as the only climbers
ever to achieve this feat-1.
Pa Dawa’s journey to this moment began nearly three decades
ago. His first Everest summit came in 1998, when he assisted British adventurer
and television personality Bear Grylls on an expedition. That first ascent launched what would become one of the
most remarkable climbing careers in the history of high-altitude
mountaineering.
Since that initial summit, Pa Dawa has made nearly annual
ascents of Everest, demonstrating not just physical capability but an
extraordinary understanding of the mountain’s moods, routes, and dangers. His
expertise has made him one of the most sought-after guides on the mountain, and
his 30th summit came as part of an expedition organized by Climbing The Seven
Summits.
But Everest has never been Pa Dawa’s only conquest. His
climbing résumé includes five ascents of Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth-highest
peak at 8,188 meters, along with successful summits of Lhotse and Manaslu-1. Perhaps even more staggering is his relationship with
Ama Dablam—the stunning peak often called the “Matterhorn of the
Himalayas”—which he has climbed more than 70 times.
The Record Chase: A Tale of Two Sherpas
Pa Dawa’s 30th summit carries particular significance given
his long-standing “friendly rivalry” with Kami Rita Sherpa, the man who holds
the absolute record for Everest ascents.
The two legendary guides have pushed each other to
ever-greater heights over the past several years. In 2023, Pa Dawa matched Kami
Rita’s record at the time, forcing the “Everest Man” to climb twice in a single
season to reclaim his title. This back-and-forth has captivated the mountaineering
world, transforming what could have been a simple statistical competition into
a compelling narrative of mutual respect and human achievement.
What makes this rivalry particularly noteworthy is the
humility both men bring to their accomplishments. Kami Rita, now 56, has
repeatedly described his climbs as “just working” rather than setting records. “I am glad for the record, but records are eventually
broken,” he told AFP after a previous ascent. “I am more happy that my climbs
help Nepal be recognized in the world”-7.
This sentiment reflects a broader truth about Sherpa
climbers: what the world celebrates as extraordinary achievements are, for
them, often simply the work of guiding foreign clients to the summit. Yet this
“work” requires navigating the Khumbu Icefall’s crevasses, surviving the “Death
Zone’s” thin air above 8,000 meters, and making split-second decisions that
mean the difference between life and death.
Kami Rita Extends His Legacy
While Pa Dawa was claiming his 30th summit, Kami Rita Sherpa
was not resting on his laurels. Earlier in the spring 2026 season, the
56-year-old climbing legend pushed his own record even further, summiting
Everest for the 32nd time.
Kami Rita first stood on Everest’s summit in 1994, four
years before Pa Dawa’s debut. In the three decades since, he has climbed the
mountain almost every year, guiding clients from around the world while
systematically extending a record that many believe may never be broken.
His 32nd summit represents not just a number but a testament
to remarkable physical endurance and mental fortitude. Scientists and mountaineering
experts alike have marveled at his ability to perform at extreme altitude year
after year, with no signs of the physiological deterioration that typically
affects even the most accomplished high-altitude climbers.
The competition between these two titans has inadvertently
driven both to greater heights, each man pushing the other to return season
after season. For Nepal’s mountaineering industry, their achievements provide
powerful marketing tools that attract climbers from around the world, all
hoping to be guided by or simply share the mountain with these living legends.
A Historic Day for Women in Mountaineering
May 18 was not only about the Sherpa men. The same day saw
significant achievements by women climbers who are reshaping the face of
high-altitude mountaineering.
Phunjo Jangmu Lama returned to the summit of Everest as
part of a landmark expedition organized by Altipro Adventures.
Her ascent marked another chapter in what has become an inspiring career for a
woman who has consistently challenged assumptions about what female climbers
can achieve.
On the same day, and continuing the remarkable trend of the
2026 season, Lhakpa Sherpa was making her own history. The
53-year-old climbing pioneer extended her own world record for the most Everest
summits by a woman, reaching the top for the 11th time.
Lhakpa Sherpa’s story is particularly remarkable. A single
mother who worked as a house cleaner in the United States between expeditions,
she has defied every obstacle to return to Everest again and again. Her 11th
summit places her in a category entirely of her own—no other woman has climbed
Everest more than half as many times.
These achievements highlight a broader shift in Himalayan
mountaineering. While Sherpa women have long worked in base camps and behind
the scenes, a new generation is taking their place on the summit ridge. Their
success sends a powerful message to aspiring female climbers in Nepal and
around the world: the highest points on Earth are accessible to anyone with the
skill, determination, and courage to pursue them.
Sanu Sherpa’s Triple Crown Pursuit
The record-filled day also saw Sanu Sherpa summit
Mt Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak at 8,516 meters, while continuing an
audacious pursuit: climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters for the third time.
Completing all 14 “8-thousanders” even once is an
achievement reserved for the world’s elite mountaineers. Fewer than 50 people
have ever accomplished this feat, which requires summiting every peak on Earth
that rises above 8,000 meters. Attempting this circuit for a third time pushes
into uncharted territory.
Lhotse, which shares much of its lower route with Everest
before splitting off toward its own distinctive summit, represents one of the
more technically challenging 8-thousanders. Its steep, icy upper slopes have
defeated many accomplished climbers. For Sanu Sherpa to summit it as part of a
third round of all 14 peaks demonstrates a level of sustained excellence across
multiple decades that few can match.
Record Permit Numbers Set the Stage
The historic achievements of May 18 did not occur in a
vacuum. They came during what is officially the busiest climbing season ever
recorded on Everest.
According to data released by Nepal’s Department of Tourism,
the government issued 492 spring climbing permits for Mount Everest in
2026, surpassing the previous record of 479 set in 2023.
This number represents a significant increase even from recent seasons, which
saw 468 permits in 2025 and 422 in 2024.
The permit numbers are particularly striking given that
Nepal raised its Everest climbing fee substantially starting in September 2025.
Foreign climbers now pay **15,000∗∗foraspringpermit,upfrom15,000∗∗foraspringpermit,upfrom11,000,
while Nepali climbers saw their fee double from 75,000 to 150,000 Nepali rupees.
Despite these increases—or perhaps because of continued global interest in the
ultimate adventure—demand for Everest permits has never been higher.
The 2026 permits represent climbers from 55 different
countries, with the United States fielding the largest contingent
with 76 climbers, followed closely by China with 109 climbers across
all peaks. India, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Russia each
sent substantial teams as well.
Total royalties from Everest permits alone reached **7.19million∗∗(overNPR1.07billion),whileall30permittedpeakscombinedgenerated7.19million∗∗(overNPR1.07billion),whileall30permittedpeakscombinedgenerated8.34
million (approximately NPR 1.24 billion) in government revenue.
Beyond Everest: Other Peaks See Record Traffic
Everest was far from the only Himalayan giant seeing
unprecedented activity in spring 2026. Across Nepal’s high peaks, a total
of 1,134 climbing permits were issued for the season.
Lhotse (8,516 meters) recorded the second-highest
number of climbers with 120 permits, which helps explain why multiple
record-setting ascents occurred on the same day—including Sanu Sherpa’s summit. Lhotse shares its approach with Everest through the
Khumbu region, making it a natural addition for climbers seeking to tick two
8-thousanders in a single expedition.
Ama Dablam (6,814 meters) drew 111 climbers, a
testament to its enduring popularity as one of the world’s most aesthetically
stunning peaks. For climbers like Pa Dawa, who has ascended Ama Dablam
more than 70 times, this peak represents not just a climb but a second home.
Makalu (8,463 meters) attracted 72 climbers, while
Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters) drew 36, and Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I registered
27 and 30 climbers respectively. Each of these peaks presents unique challenges—Makalu’s
exposed ridges, Kanchenjunga’s remote location and unpredictable weather,
Annapurna’s infamous avalanche danger—yet all saw strong interest in 2026.
The Congestion Question: Blessing or Curse?
The record number of permits and the heavy traffic on summit
days like May 18 raise important questions about safety and sustainability on
Everest.
Experts and industry insiders have expressed concerns that
the convergence of hundreds of climbers on narrow summit routes could create
dangerous bottlenecks, particularly in the “Death Zone” above 8,000 meters
where oxygen is scarce and decision-making abilities are impaired.
The 2019 season provided a stark warning. Long lines formed
on the route to the summit, forcing climbers to wait for hours in sub-zero
temperatures while their supplemental oxygen supplies dwindled. At least 14
people lost their lives that season in circumstances that many attributed at
least partially to overcrowding.
The 2026 season has seen similar concerns. The route through
the Khumbu Icefall—the treacherous, constantly shifting glacier that marks the
first major obstacle on the South Col route—was reportedly delayed by a massive
ice tower that blocked progress.
As of May 9, route fixers had only reached Camp IV at approximately 7,900
meters, leaving the final push to the summit uncertain.
If weather windows for summit attempts are limited, the
combination of record climber numbers and delayed route fixing could compress
attempts into dangerously narrow timeframes.
Yet for all these concerns, the 2026 season has so far
proceeded without major disasters. Experienced guides like Pa Dawa and Kami
Rita, along with the elite Sherpa teams who fix ropes and manage logistics,
provide a level of expertise and risk management that has improved
significantly over the past decade.
What Drives the Record-Setters?
For those who summit Everest once, the motivation is often
clear: personal challenge, the allure of adventure, or the desire to check the
world’s highest peak off a bucket list. But what drives a person to return 30
or 32 times?
For Pa Dawa and Kami Rita, the answer appears to be a
combination of professional obligation and genuine passion. Both men make their
living as guides, and their reputations for safety and success attract clients
willing to pay premium prices for the assurance that they will be led by a
living legend.
But there is more to it than economics. Both men have
spoken, if reluctantly, about a deep connection to the mountains that
transcends commerce. They grew up in the shadow of Everest, in villages where
the mountain is not merely a physical landmark but a spiritual presence. To
climb Everest is, for them, to engage with the landscape that shaped their
identities.
Their continued success also provides invaluable economic
benefits to their communities. The money earned from guiding supports not just
their immediate families but extended networks of relatives and neighbors. In
Pangboche and Thame, the villages that produced Pa Dawa and Kami Rita
respectively, the success of local climbers has funded schools, clinics, and
monastery renovations.
The Role of Expedition Operators
Behind every successful summit is an expedition operator
managing logistics, permits, equipment, and personnel. The May 18 successes
were shared among multiple companies.
Climbing The Seven Summits organized Pa Dawa’s
record-setting 30th ascent-1. TAG Nepal Treks and Expeditions, whose co-owner
Govinda Gurung confirmed the summit, played a supporting role-1. Seven Summit Treks, one of Nepal’s largest and
most successful expedition companies, organized Kami Rita’s climbs and many
others. Altipro
Adventures organized the expedition that brought Phunjo Jangmu Lama back
to the summit.
These companies compete fiercely for clients while also
collaborating on shared infrastructure like route fixing and base camp
logistics. The spring 2026 season has demonstrated the maturity and
professionalism of Nepal’s expedition industry, which has evolved significantly
from the early days when climbing was dominated by large national teams.
Looking Ahead: What the 2026 Season Means
As the spring 2026 season continues, the mountaineering
world will be watching to see whether the record-setting pace holds. With more
climbers on the mountain than ever before, and legendary figures like Pa Dawa
and Kami Rita still active, further milestones are likely.
For Nepal, the record permit numbers represent a significant
economic boost. The $7.19 million in Everest royalties alone makes
mountaineering one of the country’s most lucrative tourism sectors. Beyond
permit fees, expeditions spend money on local guides, porters, lodging, food,
equipment, and transportation, generating economic activity that reaches far beyond
the mountain itself.
But the season also raises questions about the future ofEverest climbing. How many times can one person climb the world’s highest peak?
Will the competition between Pa Dawa and Kami Rita continue? Can the mountain
sustain ever-increasing traffic without losing what makes it special?
These questions have no easy answers. What is clear,
however, is that May 18, 2026, will be remembered as one of the greatest single
days in the history of Himalayan mountaineering. On that day, on the highest
slopes of the world’s tallest mountain, human beings pushed beyond limits that
once seemed final, rewriting the record books and inspiring future generations
to look upward and dream.
Pa Dawa’s 30th Everest summit was reported by The Himalayan
Times on May 18, 2026, with additional coverage from multiple international
news organizations. The spring 2026 permit data was released by Nepal’s
Department of Tourism on May 8, 2026.
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